Thursday, 20 November 2014

A Bhutanese Welcome

Our arrival in Paro, Bhutan was to set the feel for the rest of our stay.  There was no rush as the plane landed and we spilled down the steps to gaze around in awe at the beauty of our surroundings. No other airport I've been to has allowed photography on the tarmac and the photograph of the King and Queen made us as welcome as the Bhutanese people.




Our start was calm as we absorbed the environment and even appreciated the airport building.  Despite the queues for immigration I embraced the Buddhist calm and for once did not get agitated by queuing.




We were whisked away to our hotel to dump our bags and head straight out to explore the sights of Paro and were immediately captivated by the charm.

our hotel centre right ... Gangtey Palace


Our first Bhutanese Stupa was one of the oldest in the country and the sun and spirit was perfect to warm our bodies and souls.



We enjoyed the sights but also loved the small details.  Prayer flags continued to be an attraction and I wanted to see them from as many angles as possible.




What an amazing place and our trip has only just begun

Sunday, 9 November 2014

Flying High

We had thoroughly enjoyed all we had seen in Kathmandu and would have loved to spend longer in some areas but we were excited to fly over the Himalayas to reach Bhutan.  We were advised that the best seats were on the left hand side of the plane and that tickets are allocated on a first come first served basis ... no advance check-in!




Our travel rep was as keen as we were that we would get good seats and he got us to the airport at 6.20 am for a 9.25 flight.  Such dedication paid off and we had prime window seats.  I am not new to travel and flying but I have never seen sights so amazing as flying over the mountain ranges and Mount Everest.  



We had clear blue skies and perfect fluffy white clouds.  Usually this is uplifting in itself but to find that there were snow capped mountain peaks on the horizon was positively exhilarating. Mountain tops sandwiched between brilliant blue was a surreal sight.  It looked more like a mountain reflected in a lake with clouds reflected from the sky.  


Truly a magical wonderland

Mount Everest was even more impressive than I had imagined and it is astounding to think that anybody climbs this phenomenal mountain.  How can a puny mortal scale this majestic peak and ascend into the heavens?




The comparison is hardly worthy of great literary acclaim and I would hate to demean the majesty of such splendour, but to me the view of this mighty mountain was like an iced Christmas cake.  This must be the most incredible flight that I am ever likely to take and it fills me with excitement and anticipation for the adventure ahead in Bhutan ...

Monday, 3 November 2014

Traditional Christmas Cake

It is the first week of a new month and as Christmas is fast approaching it seemed only fitting that I should feature a Christmas Cake. I shall endeavour to revert to my usual fare in another week.



I have been making Christmas cakes for as long as I remember and over the decades I have tried many recipes.  I wish that I had made a record of my Nanna's cake but I never thought there would be a time that I would need it. In the last 10 years I have alternated between two recipes but they never seemed quite right.  Two years ago I tasted my friend Chris' cake which was a recipe handed down from her mother, and I realised that it was much better than the ones I had been making.  She graciously gave me her family recipe and I determined to make it a tradition in our home too.

However, I seem incapable of following a cake recipe to the letter and just had to make a few adjustments to suit my own tastes.  Here I shall list her recipe and let you know the changes that I made.  Feel free to try it yourself and enjoy it as it was made 50 years ago, or as you prefer it:

Christmas Cake
as made by Sylvia Fripp (1928 - 1960)

Ingredients:
10 oz plain flour
8 oz butter
8 oz soft brown sugar
1 lb sultanas
1 lb currants - I substitute half the currants with a mixture of additional cherries/raisins                          and cranberries (and this year a few apricots too)
1/2 lb stoneless raisins
1/4 lb glace cherries
1/4 lb mixed peel
1/4 or 2 oz ground almonds - I used 6 oz almonds (mixed ground and flaked)
4 eggs
grated rind of 1 lemon and 1 orange and half of the juice
1/4 tsp bicarbonate of soda mixed with a little warm water
pinch of salt
1 tsp mixed spice
1 Tbs black treacle
1 Tbs rum, sherry or brandy - I use 120 ml Amaretto
(I also add 1 Tbs cocoa powder)

Method:
Now this is where we tend to be left to our own devices as my friend's recipe only detailed ingredients ... I guess assuming that we all know how to bake!

I am not a great baker and wish I had paid more attention to my Nanna as she baked, rather than just eating the finished article.  So what follows is my rambling process which turned out ok last year and I have still to sample this years efforts.

  • Firstly I put all dried fruit in a large bowl and added the alcohol, then cover it and allow to soak overnight.  I also add the zest and fruit juice at this time.
  • In an attempt to be organised I then grease and line my chosen tin.  I always like a square cake as it's easier to cut even slices.  In addition to making a large cake for myself, I use the same quantity to make a smaller round one and a much smaller loaf tin for a single person with a small appetite!
  • I use a food processor to cream together the sugar and butter until pale and fluffy.
  • Then beat in the eggs singly. If it starts to curdle add a small spoonful of flour.
  • I find it quite hard to mix in the fruit evenly so have discovered it is easier to get an even coverage by mixing the soaked fruit with the flour before then folding it all into the better mixture.  I add the other ingredients and mix well ... this is the time that any other family members are encouraged to stir the mixture and make a wish. This year I had to make wishes for us all as nobody else was present in the house.
  • Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin. I also provide additional protection by applying a double layer of tin foil around the outside of the tin, secured by string.
  • Place in a pre-heated oven at 150 degrees Centigrade for one hour and then reduce the heat to 130*C for a further 2 hours.  I am always worried that the top will burn and I add a layer of folded grease-proof paper for the final hour.  I check it regularly from the third hour and if a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean it is cooked.  If still wet cook for further 20 minutes and test again.  
  • Allow to cool completely in the tin before turning out and removing all paper. I wrap it in grease-proof paper and tin foil and place in a cool room to store.  In the following weeks or months prick the surface with a cocktail stick and add more alcohol to keep the cake moist and tasty.
  • In the two weeks before Christmas cover with marzipan and icing to your taste ... we hate icing so only cover it with marzipan.  It may look strange but it suits our tastes and after all it is the taste that matters!
I hope that you will try this recipe and that you enjoy it as much as we do. It's good to know that Sylvia's memory lives on in the people who enjoy her cake.


Saturday, 1 November 2014

Step up to Swayambhunath

365 steps to rise to the stupa above Kathmandu ... and we cheated and took the back door



We had thought we'd climb the steps but I guess our guide wasn't too keen as he didn't give us the choice.  The views from the top were were phenomenal, both of the stupa and temple and the surrounding Kathmandu valley.




The surrounding valley spread out below us and made us believe that the valley really could have grown from a single lotus flower rising from a primordial lake.  The magnificence of the stupa behind us, the mountains on the horizon and the green valley spread below us made this a memorable place.






The temple is also known as the monkey temple ... the monkeys certainly seemed to think it was their temple:


Next stop stunning views of Mount Everest ...